Wait for the Range Officer's (R.O.'s) command to load, then...
1. We'll assume that the RO proved the gun clear when you took it out of the bag and before you went to put up a target. If you do not know what "to prove a gun clear" means then click here.
2. Pick up the revolver and pull the hammer back gently to half-cock (centre picture opposite) NOT full-cock (bottom picture) and keep your finger off the trigger. The cylinder will rotate on half-cock but not on full-cock or when de-cocked (top picture).
De-cock is used when transporting or storing an unloaded gun.
Half-cock is used when loading the gun or proving clear.
Full-cock is used when you fire the gun.
de-cocked
half-cocked
full-cock
3. Tip the gun barrel up, right handers hold the barrel in your left hand with the butt resting on the loading bench and the right side of the gun facing you. Left handers hold the barrel in your right hand with the butt resting on the loading bench and the right side of the gun facing you.
4. If you are loading black powder from a flask make sure you have the right size spout.
(I have 4 different black powder guns. Each needs a different spout. Label the spout clearly! Use the wrong spout in a competition and you may lose because of that error.)
Pedersoli recommend 16 to 22 grains for the Rogers and Spencer .44 revolver. Euroarms recommend starting at 28 grains for their Rogers and Spencer. Ruger recommend 20 grains in the Old Army.
(A .36 will need a smaller spout of about 15 grains.) Spouts are available in sizes 10, 15, 18, 21, 24, 30, 36.......etc up to 120 grains.
Start with a new gun by weighing charges into vials. (If you use the vials for black powder then keep them for that. Don't use the same vials for nitro powder. Nitro contaminated with black powder dust sounds like you have made a big loading error!) When you have found the charge which gives you the best group with your gun then you can buy the right size spout. If the size you want isn't available then buy the next size up and file it down to the right size by trial and error. (Weigh a dozen charges and take the average. File a bit off. Repeat weighing and filing until you get the charge you need. Make sure you smooth the filed bit or you'll be cutting your finger on it!)
(Yes, my flask is a bit old, dented, and corroded; and no I don't want to clean and polish it! It was like that when I got it and I want it to stay that way. It has character!)
This is the view with the measuring spout unscrewed.
The spring keeps the shutter closed.
The lever opens the shutter.
5. Tip the flask with the spout down. Put your finger over the end to stop the powder coming out. Open the shutter pushing with your thumb against the lever. The spout will fill with powder. Give the flask a couple of shakes to settle and pack the powder then close the shutter by letting go of the lever with your thumb.
Remember to shake the flask the same way and the same number of times each time. Inconsistency leads to charges of different sizes and bigger groups/flyers!
Photo of flask being tipped upside down filling spout.
6. Tip the flask upright and remove your finger. Look into the spout and check it is full.
If the shutter sticks then some of the charge may run back into the flask. When the flask is nearly empty the spout may not be properly filled.
7. Put the end of the spout into an empty chamber and pour the powder in. Tap the spout against the chamber side to ensure it has delivered its full load and is empty.
Flasks are OK for club shooting. If you want greater accuracy than that given with a powder flask (i.e. approx ± 1/4 grain) you will have to weigh each charge individually and put it in a stoppered tube or vial. Tip in one vial per cylinder at step 7 instead of using a powder flask. (N.B. MLAIC competitions do not allow the use of a powder flask. You must use stoppered tubes. See later under nitro.)
photo of flask/spout loading a cylinder.
8. Put the flask down, (and pick up a wad if you are using them. Place the wad in the chamber mouth).
Wads are not essential, but some shooters use them instead of grease in step 12. You can buy them made with or without lube.
At this point some shooters use a small measured amount of an inert filler like corn meal or semolina powder on top of the black powder and under the ball. It is a good idea if you are using very small charges in big cylinders.
9. Pick up a ball and place it in the chamber mouth. Rotate the cylinder underneath the rammer.
10. Unlatch the rammer and seat the ball as deep as it will go using normal force. Left handers can spin the gun 180° around the vertical axis to do this bit.
There is no need to try to crush the powder! The aim is to seat the ball on the powder with no air gap. Black Powder burns best with no air gap and slightly compressed. Obviously the ball will seat deeper with less powder!
11. Now repeat steps 5 to 10 with each of the remaining 5 chambers in turn.
Now you have finished with the powder flask put it on the chair behind you or in a side pocket so you can't accidentally shoot it. I'm told it makes a great grenade!
12. Use a flat lolly stick or similar to put a small dollop of high melting point bearing grease (axle grease or pump grease, even lard) to cover the ball and seal off the chamber. Do this for all 6 chambers. This lubricates the ball, it softens the fouling in the barrel, and it stops chainfire.
13. Right handers change grip and hold the gun by the butt in the left hand. Point the gun down range in the direction of the target. Put a percussion cap on the nipple in the recess on the right side.
Left handers find capping right handed guns hard. Point the gun downrange. Rotate the gun around the barrel axis so the butt is uppermost. The cutout recess for capping is now on the left side. Hold the butt with the right hand and cap with the left. Don't forget to rotate the gun back around the barrel so the butt is down for shooting, although Billy the Kid could shoot with it that way up!
Use the flat end of a pencil or the flat plastic end of a ball point pen to press gently to make sure the cap is firmly seated. No need for excessive force or you may fire the primer! Rotate the cylinder and put a cap on the next one etc. Keep the gun pointing downrange at all times, just in case a cap goes off and the gun fires. It will fire in a safe direction.
Put the lid back on the tin of caps or cover them during firing. A spark in a tin of caps could make a nice firework display, or worse.
Some guns have larger nipples, use no 11 caps. For guns with smaller nipples or where no 11 caps keep falling off during shooting use no 10 caps. If the no 10 caps are still loose then gently squeeze the opening between finger and thumb to make the entrance oval and the caps will grip better.
14. Hold/grip the loaded gun and rest it on the loading bench pointing at the target area. Keep your finger off the trigger. Do not put it down and leave it once it is loaded. To leave it you MUST UNLOAD it.
15. Wait for the R. O.'s command to commence firing before cocking the pistol.
Photo of capped nipple
Left handers can cap with the gun this way up!
number 11 and number 10 caps